@ Scott, here are my "lessons-learnt"
......
No 1 tip, do not underestimate the difficulty with getting a visa to the great nation of Russia, lol!!! Start early, fill in all papers properly and generally treat the issue with great respect! You must do it in your own country, it is extremely complicated to get the visa anywhere else. By far, my greatest regret about this trip was not being able to get a Russian visa because I had underestimated the difficulty. If you want to travel visa-free to Russian-speaking countries, then Ukraine and Kazakhstan are the two possibilities.
2 - If you go to Ukraine, be aware that the majority of signs etc that you see when you walk around town, will be in Ukrainian. This is really confusing if you are trying to learn Russian. I think most people speak Russian between themselves, but
do not go to Ukraine with the expectation that it is Russian-speaking in the same way as Russia itself. On the other hand, Ukraine itself is a very interesting cool country with super-friendly and helpful people.
3 -
Forget all the stories you may have heard about "the wild East". It is basically not dangerous to travel in this area. There are no more crooks or theives than anywhere else, and the average person is MORE helpful towards strangers than what they'd be in an average Western European city, for example. There are no ticket touts and no beggars.
4 - If you travel by train (which is a good idea...) be sure to allocate LOTS of time to figure out how and where to get your ticket at the station, read the time table and learn train related vocabulary. The people who work in the railway industry in this area do not speak other languages, so you must be able to speak with them in Russian. Even if some railway staff members look a bit grumpy at first sight, they are almost universally very helpful if you ask them for help in a nice way. Also remember that when there is not a convenient train, there might well be a coach for the same stretch. They usually leave from a separate coach station.
5 - Do not comment on politics, since the politics of Eastern Europe is extremely complex and as foreigners we sound stupid and / or ignorant / arrogant almost regardless of what we say. Instead ask open and unbiased questions and simply listen to what people say. Alternatively forget about politics and enjoy the culture or history for example.
6 - Give Belarus a chance and you'll have a very unique experience. It's a country that has very little tourism despite being very interesting for lots of reasons. For all extents and purposes it is Russian speaking although street signs are in Belarussian. The guidebook hysteria about Belarus being Soviet-like is totally exaggerated. The only thing that is a bit unusual is that you see quite a lot of people in military style uniforms, but I think they simply have desk jobs for the state, and are not policemen. Belarus is extremely good value for money compared with Russia. You can stay in a perfectly nice and clean hotel for USD 20 a night, just as an example. It is also an extremely safe country totally devoid of robberies or yob behaviour. Beautiful nature.
7 - Visit smaller towns, not just the capitals.
8 - I regret that I didn't
go to more concerts or to opera, theatre or ballet. In Belarus in particular, it's super cheap and the quality is fantastic. I went to a piano concerto and it was amazing.
9 - Try to meet somebody who is local and willing to show you around. That way the city feels more real and you get a better feeling than you'd ever get from a guided tour.
10 - The local Gum/tsum department stores are listed in all guidebooks, but they are not where the good shopping is in Ukraine and Belarus . For that, try the markets, chic boulevards with new (and expensive) designer clothes, or indoor / underground shopping centres.
11 - The tastiest and best value restaurants are the ones serving local food. Do not have Italian, French, Sushi etc in this part of the world. For what you get, it is not good value. Be prepared for very long waits for food at restaurants and don 't get upset, it's just the norm.
12 - Consider fitting in some fun activity, like going hiking, going to a spa, take a week of skiing or sunbathing depending on the season.
13 - I would have loved to go to the Caucasus, to Central Asia or Russia's Far East. If you were to do something really cool, you could fly to St. Petersburg, then travel by train through Russia stopping in interesting places on the way and return to the US over the Pacific. There might well be some airline flying Vladivostok directly to the USA, else, just book a ticket with a change in S.Korea or China.
14 - Bring and give little presents to people from your own city - it's the culture! People you meet will be more hospitable and friendly than you could ever expect, and mutual gift giving is part of the customs, I think. I wish I had thought of bringing souvenirs to give away, but I simply didn't think of it. If you have food on the train, offer something to everyone sitting nearby, for example biscuits or fruit.