I don't think they do actually. In desperation, I tried Russian with the Vienna -> Bucharest train conductor, who I was totally unable to communicate with. I said "Может быть по-гусский вы понимаете?" He responded with emphasis, in English "Never!" Unfortunately he practically knew no other words in English so I was not sure what to make of the response. I also asked an older lady on the train, in Russian, if she could speak it. She just looked confused.
I don't think they speak Russian. When I studied Russian in school. one of the reasons to convince students to choose it, was "then you can speak with everyone in Eastern Europe". That is just not true.
I stuffed full a bag from Osprey, called "Soujourn". It's an 80 litre wheel/backpack combination bag. I also took a smaller day pack type rucksack from Osprey; The main bag is so heavy I could never put it on my back. That's about the right level of luggage, I think - but mine is very heavy because I bouight some Russian books (that I have not yet opened). And a laptop.
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Losing my wallet put me off a bit and I am worried about going to Ukraine now. I had not even left the EU before something like that happened. The absolutely worst case scenario would be ending up without passport or a penny somewhere in the middle of Ukraine. I am really trying to be low-key and careful, but what happened with the Romanian train and the wallet was discouraging. I was really keen to see Ukraine but nobody I knew wanted/could come. Perhaps I am being naive. Maybe I should just get on a train straight to Belarus, which seems safe.
I chatted with a girl in the taxi - in Russian. She did not seem to think it was a good idea to travel to Ukraine alone but because of my bad Russian, it was not possible to have an in-depth conversation.



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